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DOWN RIVER |
Following in the wake of Tom Sawyer and Huck Finn, whether it be on a raft, or on a 50' trawler with
all the goodies. . . promises to be the adventure of your lifetime.
all the goodies. . . promises to be the adventure of your lifetime.
As summertime closes on Lake Michigan, you will want to be in a position to leave Chicago and begin your voyage
down the Illinois, Mississippi, and/or (if you take the Tenn-Tom route) the Ohio, Tennessee, Cumberland rivers, and the
Tennessee-Tombigbee waterway.
Your destination of course, is now the Gulf of Mexico. You will be voyaging right through the very heartland of America.
From Chicago through the Midwest to the Deep South, each region will seem as distinct worlds. You will see cities melt
into farmlands, and farmlands rise into hillsides; and eventually it all will fade into swamp land.
By now, you may have already journeyed half of the 5,500 miles or so that it will take you to complete the Great Loop.
You will already be familiar with the challenges of traversing locks and bridge height restrictions, which (believe it or not)
you will find again on this portion of your journey. In addition, faster currents, silting, fewer marinas, anchorages, and barge
traffic are now brand new challenges you will face on the rivers. With proper planning however, this portion of the trip will
prove to be every bit the most adventurous, enjoyable and easy of all the rest.
In the end, most Loopers will tell you the rivers were their favorite part of the trip. September is the preferred time to
depart Chicago and enter the Illinois Waterway, summer heat has passed, and the cooler weather will begin coloring the
landscape as you journey south.
There are two routes from Lake Michigan to the Illinois River, if you can clear an over-head structure of 17', you can take
the scenic route, which is right through downtown Chicago. If you can't clear 17' you will have to cruise about 11 miles
south of Chicago and take the Cal-Sag route. In either case, it is less than 3 miles down river from the junction of these
two routes, where you will meet up with that 19’ 1” bridge you must go under in order to reach the Mississippi River.
down the Illinois, Mississippi, and/or (if you take the Tenn-Tom route) the Ohio, Tennessee, Cumberland rivers, and the
Tennessee-Tombigbee waterway.
Your destination of course, is now the Gulf of Mexico. You will be voyaging right through the very heartland of America.
From Chicago through the Midwest to the Deep South, each region will seem as distinct worlds. You will see cities melt
into farmlands, and farmlands rise into hillsides; and eventually it all will fade into swamp land.
By now, you may have already journeyed half of the 5,500 miles or so that it will take you to complete the Great Loop.
You will already be familiar with the challenges of traversing locks and bridge height restrictions, which (believe it or not)
you will find again on this portion of your journey. In addition, faster currents, silting, fewer marinas, anchorages, and barge
traffic are now brand new challenges you will face on the rivers. With proper planning however, this portion of the trip will
prove to be every bit the most adventurous, enjoyable and easy of all the rest.
In the end, most Loopers will tell you the rivers were their favorite part of the trip. September is the preferred time to
depart Chicago and enter the Illinois Waterway, summer heat has passed, and the cooler weather will begin coloring the
landscape as you journey south.
There are two routes from Lake Michigan to the Illinois River, if you can clear an over-head structure of 17', you can take
the scenic route, which is right through downtown Chicago. If you can't clear 17' you will have to cruise about 11 miles
south of Chicago and take the Cal-Sag route. In either case, it is less than 3 miles down river from the junction of these
two routes, where you will meet up with that 19’ 1” bridge you must go under in order to reach the Mississippi River.
After you pass under "that bridge", you are on your way down river. Your first safe opportunity to stop will be at Joliet (Mile
marker 288). Here, the Joliet Bicentennial Park provides side-tie mooring along a stone wall on the right descending
bank of the canal. Your best stop however will be at Mile marker 275 at Three Rivers Marina or Harborside Marina at mile
marker 273.3 where we usually stay. On the second day of the journey, you will traverse four locks before arriving at
Heritage Harbor in Ottowa, Illinois. After the Starved Rock lock, you will enjoy 70 miles of lock-free cruising until reaching
Peoria, Illinois. Here the Ivy Club Marina will welcome you for the evening. After the Peoria lock, the town of Havana is
home to the small family-owned, friendly Tall Timbers marina, which is walking distance from the historic downtown. This
marina will accommodate boaters with free wi-fi. From here on, Marinas become scarcer, and those that do exist are
sometimes not accessible to boats with deep draft. The scenery here is farmland, so the sporadic placement of marinas
should not come as a complete surprise. Instead, other interesting, river-style mooring options crop up, such as the
Logsdon Barge Service in Beardstown, Illinois. For a small fee, you can tie up to a no-frills barge and walk into town to
replenish supplies. It might not be glamorous, but it’s a safe place to dock for the night until continuing on to Grafton,
Illinois.
After Hoppies, you’ll have at least two probably three nights of anchoring out, so – it might be a good idea to find a
boating buddy at Hoppies - as the next few days Loopers tend to buddy boat with the people they met at Hoppies. We
usually drop hook at the Diversion Canal and share a drink or two with other boaters. The Diversion Canal is a delightful
place - no services, but a safe place to tuck in for the night.
This, is called by many names... "Anchoring out" - "on the hook" - even "gunkholing". Whatever you call it, you need a very good strong anchoring system to do it right; and doing it right will make a big difference for you and your neighboring boaters. On the water, a good anchoring system is better for a good nights sleep than any Sleep Number Bed. |
The Upper Mississippi ends and the Lower Mississippi begins at Cairo, Illinois, but with very long distances between
fueling (450 miles), few safe harbors, dangerous debris, and heavy barge traffic, few Loopers take the Mississippi route to
the Gulf. Usually, everyone bids farewell to the Mississippi in Cairo, and take the Tennessee-Tombigbee Waterway to the
Gulf, ending in Mobile, Alabama. Here, you take the Ohio River past the Tennessee River junction, to the Cumberland
River, to one of the first bona fide marinas since Hoppie’s - and it happens to be one of our favorites - the Green Turtle
Bay Marina.
The Tenn-Tom is an extensive inland man-made waterway system unlike any of its kind. It was a bigger project than the
Panama Canal. The 450-mile-long waterway was completed in December 1984 after 12 years of construction. It of
course, provides an alternative route to the Mississippi, but it too, is not without its hang-ups and hazards. You will still
have currents, shoaling, debris, and barges to contend with, but on a much more manageable level than the Mississippi.
The very best way to avoid all the problems everyone else has on the rivers - is to simply stay inside the red and green
buoys. This might seem common sense, but on the river, the temptation to cut corners can often be stronger than the
currents. When you go around a bend, you have to know where the deep side will be because the shallow side will be
silted. When Loopers cut corners, they run aground, run into barges, pick up debris, damage their props. . . And then try
to blame someone else for their problems. Despite the hazards, if you follow the rules, use good common sense, then you
will absolutely love this part of your voyage. The food is good, the people are friendly, and this entire leg of your journey is
one 450 mile long stream of Kodak moments.
There are a number of locks on the Tenn-Tom route, between the Ohio and Mobile Bay. Also great expanses of farmland
and rural landscapes, (we call it "no mans land") often surprises Loopers who more accustom to life and boating around
major populated areas. It’s narrower and most of the waters are muddy, but that seems to just make the catfish taste all
that much better.
On the Tenn-Tom route you will fuel, supplies and southern cooking and small town hospitality so intriguing and wonderful,
you'll want to eat your way all the way to the Gulf. After Bobby's Fish Camp you can often smell the sea air; and of all the
other legs of the Loop, this one ends in a great American city. Mobile is a gem of the South, and after many a day on the
rivers, you will find it to be a welcome site - and a pleasure to enjoy full-service, big city amenities before you make your
way into the biggest body of water you have seen since leaving the Atlantic - the Gulf of Mexico.
Yes, cruising America's Great Loop is a wonderful, exhilarating, and undoubtedly fun adventure. Your voyage down river
through America's heartland will indeed be one of your many highlights of the journey. On this portion of your cruise you
will encounter other "Loopers" in all shapes, sizes and types of vessels: from sailboats, houseboats, cabin cruisers,
catamarans, trawlers, tugs, and anything that floats. The Great Loop is after all, a truly American adventure.
Voyaging down river, it matters not what size, type, kind, or cost of your vessel; your vessel does not have to shine - it
does have to have all the bells and whistles. At days end you will find yourself sharing this experience with both bums and
billionaires. Some Loopers will own yachts, others will own something equivalent to a floating cargo crate with an
outboard engine. Most of us will own vessels that fall somewhere in-between. But fact remains - no one cares how new or
old, big or small your boat, or how much it cost.
As you will discover yourself when anchored in the same harbors - gathered at the same barbecues on the same
beaches, over the same steamed claims, crabs, fish fry, or pot luck dinner, you will soon realize it is not the boat that
unites Loopers out here, it is the boater.
and rural landscapes, (we call it "no mans land") often surprises Loopers who more accustom to life and boating around
major populated areas. It’s narrower and most of the waters are muddy, but that seems to just make the catfish taste all
that much better.
On the Tenn-Tom route you will fuel, supplies and southern cooking and small town hospitality so intriguing and wonderful,
you'll want to eat your way all the way to the Gulf. After Bobby's Fish Camp you can often smell the sea air; and of all the
other legs of the Loop, this one ends in a great American city. Mobile is a gem of the South, and after many a day on the
rivers, you will find it to be a welcome site - and a pleasure to enjoy full-service, big city amenities before you make your
way into the biggest body of water you have seen since leaving the Atlantic - the Gulf of Mexico.
Yes, cruising America's Great Loop is a wonderful, exhilarating, and undoubtedly fun adventure. Your voyage down river
through America's heartland will indeed be one of your many highlights of the journey. On this portion of your cruise you
will encounter other "Loopers" in all shapes, sizes and types of vessels: from sailboats, houseboats, cabin cruisers,
catamarans, trawlers, tugs, and anything that floats. The Great Loop is after all, a truly American adventure.
Voyaging down river, it matters not what size, type, kind, or cost of your vessel; your vessel does not have to shine - it
does have to have all the bells and whistles. At days end you will find yourself sharing this experience with both bums and
billionaires. Some Loopers will own yachts, others will own something equivalent to a floating cargo crate with an
outboard engine. Most of us will own vessels that fall somewhere in-between. But fact remains - no one cares how new or
old, big or small your boat, or how much it cost.
As you will discover yourself when anchored in the same harbors - gathered at the same barbecues on the same
beaches, over the same steamed claims, crabs, fish fry, or pot luck dinner, you will soon realize it is not the boat that
unites Loopers out here, it is the boater.
It is a good idea to spend the night somewhere between Grafton
Harbor and or at Alton Marina at Mile marker 202.9 above the Mel
Price Lock at Mile 200.8. After that, there is only one poor potential
anchorage and no marinas until you reach Hoppies Marina at Mile
marker 158.5.
The next big city from Grafton, is St. Louis, Missouri, and
surprisingly there are no good anchorage options here either. So
we suggest you plan to stay at the Alton Marina at mile 202.9,
which is next to the Argosy Casino and puts you closer to
sightseeing and restaurants in downtown St. Louis.
Below the Mel Price Lock & Dam, you will enter the Chain of
Rocks canal at Mile marker 194.1. Do not continue down the
river. There is a chain of big shallow rocks and a low water dam
that only pieces of your boat can pass over.
Harbor and or at Alton Marina at Mile marker 202.9 above the Mel
Price Lock at Mile 200.8. After that, there is only one poor potential
anchorage and no marinas until you reach Hoppies Marina at Mile
marker 158.5.
The next big city from Grafton, is St. Louis, Missouri, and
surprisingly there are no good anchorage options here either. So
we suggest you plan to stay at the Alton Marina at mile 202.9,
which is next to the Argosy Casino and puts you closer to
sightseeing and restaurants in downtown St. Louis.
Below the Mel Price Lock & Dam, you will enter the Chain of
Rocks canal at Mile marker 194.1. Do not continue down the
river. There is a chain of big shallow rocks and a low water dam
that only pieces of your boat can pass over.
| Set at the confluence of the Illinois River and the Upper Mississippi, Grafton, IL is a historic river Grafton Harbor (Marina) is located at mile marker 0 on the Illinois River which is also the Upper Mississippi Mile marker 218. Grafton Harbor is a newer full-service marina with 128 covered slips, 52 uncovered slips, a floating Pool, a floating Hot Tub, great shower and laundry facilities, Ship’s Store, General Store, Gift Shop, a Restaurant, Bar and winery. It also have both gas and diesel fuel. |
| At the Upper Mississippi Mile marker 184, the canal returns to the river. It is here that you will experience the hardest and fastest current of your entire voyage. In fact, you will race past the St. Louis waterfront and Arch so fast, if you want to take a picture of it, you better have your camera ready. Your next stop will be Hoppie’s Marina in Kimmswick, Missouri, and this is a must stop. It is your last chance to get fuel for 250 miles. Furthermore, until you stop at Hoppie’s and meet Fern, you haven't "officially" experienced the Great Loop. |
From Hoppies, and for the next 158 miles or so, you
will discover wingdams and weirdams.
Wingdams extend from the shore usually no more
exceptions). They are unmarked navigational
exceptions). They are unmarked navigational
hazards (structures, rock piles) to prevent erosion
and direct the river's flow toward the center of the
river. The USACE has built over 1,000 wing dams
on the upper Mississippi River and on the Illinois
Waterway. If the river is a little high, they may not be
seen at all. Usually however, if you know what to
look for, wing dams can be recognized by the
ripples on the surface of the water.
will discover wingdams and weirdams.
Wingdams extend from the shore usually no more
exceptions). They are unmarked navigational
exceptions). They are unmarked navigational
hazards (structures, rock piles) to prevent erosion
and direct the river's flow toward the center of the
river. The USACE has built over 1,000 wing dams
on the upper Mississippi River and on the Illinois
Waterway. If the river is a little high, they may not be
seen at all. Usually however, if you know what to
look for, wing dams can be recognized by the
ripples on the surface of the water.
| Wing what? |
The poor guy on the right had to be rescued off that wing dam by the
Coast Guard. Now before you go and think how stupid he must have
been to run over that. . . Just remember, he probably ran over it two (or
more) hours before this picture was taken. At that time, what he saw
from the water may have looked more like the water in the picture
above. So, if you've never seen wingdams or weirdams before, you
need to familiarize yourself with them so you know what to look for.
(Their general locations are marked on navigational charts).
Coast Guard. Now before you go and think how stupid he must have
been to run over that. . . Just remember, he probably ran over it two (or
more) hours before this picture was taken. At that time, what he saw
from the water may have looked more like the water in the picture
above. So, if you've never seen wingdams or weirdams before, you
need to familiarize yourself with them so you know what to look for.
(Their general locations are marked on navigational charts).
| © 1993 - 2012 CaptainJohn.org |
| Capt John's America's Great Loop |
